Two Countries, One Coffee: A Frosty January Escape to Malmö

Copenhagen is divine, but there is something undeniably thrilling about waking up in Denmark and deciding, on a whim, to have lunch in Sweden. On a biting January morning, fuelled by a steaming latte and a lingering taste of adventure, we hopped across the Øresund Strait to rediscover Malmö—Scandinavia’s most eclectic underdog.

Quick Facts:

📍 Location: Malmö, Southern Sweden (Skåne region).
💶 Budget: Mid-range (roughly £80–£120 for a full day, including travel and dining).
✨ Vibe: A seamless blend of medieval charm, neo-futurist architecture, and a youthful, bike-friendly soul.
🗓️ Best Time: May to September for the parks and beaches; December/January for cosy fika vibes.

Crossing the Strait

The beauty of the Copenhagen-Malmö connection is that it requires almost zero planning. Separated by just 30km of water, the two cities are linked by the magnificent Øresund Bridge—an 8km engineering marvel that makes international travel feel as easy as a commute on the London Overground.
After a slow breakfast at our hotel (housed in Denmark’s oldest brewery, no less), we set off. No exhausting itineraries, no heavy luggage—just a desire to see how the Swedish side of the water was faring.

Old World Soul vs. New World Ambition

Malmö is a city of two halves. We started in Gamla Väster, the old town, where the cobblestones whisper stories of the 14th century. Stortorget, the city’s grandest square, still manages to take my breath away with its 16th-century scale, while the nearby St. Peter’s Church (Sankt Petri Kyrka) stands as a hauntingly beautiful example of Gothic brickwork.
But then, you look up. Looming over the Western Harbour (Västra Hamnen) is the Turning Torso. Standing at 190m, this neo-futurist “twisted” skyscraper is the tallest building in Scandinavia. It’s a jarring, brilliant contrast to the medieval alleys of the centre, and if you have the time, the guided tours offer a spectacular vantage point.

Castles, Culture, and Green Escapes

If you’re a museum lover, Malmö Castle (Malmöhus Slott) is your one-stop shop. Completed in 1542, it’s the oldest surviving Renaissance castle in Scandinavia. A single ticket grants you entry to the Natural History Museum, the Art Museum, and even an aquarium.
For something punchier, head to Moderna Museet Malmö. It’s housed in a decommissioned power station—bright orange and impossible to miss—and features heavyweights like Salvador Dalí and Marcel Duchamp.
If the weather is on your side, the city’s parks are its lungs. Kungsparken is perfect for a lazy picnic, while Pildammsparken hosts open-air concerts in the summer.

If you’re visiting in the height of July, follow the locals to “Ribban” (Ribersborgsstranden). This 3km stretch of beach is home to the Kallbadhus, a stunning open-air bathhouse built in 1898, where you can sauna and plunge into the sea like a true Swede.

The Art of the Swedish Fika

You cannot visit Sweden without indulging in fika—the sacred coffee and cake break. We bypassed the modern chains and went straight to Hollandia Konditori, the oldest pastry shop in town. Stepping inside is like entering a time capsule: red velvet chairs, crystal chandeliers, and the smell of cardamom buns. It’s the perfect place to warm your bones after a winter walk.

Editor’s Note: If you’re looking for something more contemporary, Solde Kaffebar and Chokladfabriken are fantastic alternatives for a caffeine fix.

Highlights (Things to Do)

✅ The Øresund Bridge: The iconic crossing between Denmark and Sweden.
✅ Stortorget & Lilla Torg: The historical beating hearts of the city.
✅ Turning Torso: A must-see for fans of modern architecture.
✅ Hollandia Konditori: For the most authentic, old-school Swedish pastry experience.
✅ Ribersborgsstranden: For a dip in the sea (or a very brave winter sauna).

Travel Logistics: Copenhagen to Malmö

By Train (Our Top Pick)
From Copenhagen Airport (CPH): Trains run regularly and take about 20 minutes to reach Malmö Central.
From København H (Central Station): Trains depart every 20 minutes. The journey is roughly 35 minutes and costs about 96 DKK (£11). You can buy tickets from the red DSB machines (select English).
Pro Tip: If you’re travelling in a group of two or more, ask for a group discount. Also, your train ticket often grants you free use of local public transport within Malmö!

By Bus
FlixBus: Leaves from Ingerslevsgade (near Copenhagen Central). It takes a bit longer (approx. 1h 15m) but is often the cheapest option if you book in advance.

Staying Over?
If you decide one day isn’t enough, I highly recommend Mayfair Hotel Tunneln. It’s 150m from the station and has hosted both Danish and Swedish kings over the centuries. Their breakfast is served in a vaulted cellar dating back to 1307—it’s atmospheric, historic, and utterly delicious.

24-Hour Malmö Itinerary

09:00 | The Royal Arrival & Morning Fika
Step off the train at Malmö Central and drop your bags at the Mayfair Hotel Tunneln. Before hitting the sights, walk five minutes to Lilla Torg. While it’s the most “touristy” square, in the early morning it’s peaceful.
The Spot: Grab a quick espresso at Solde Kaffebar. It’s tiny, standing-room-only vibes, and arguably the best roast in the city.

11:00 | From Medieval Walls to Modern Twists
Walk through the Kungsparken (the King’s Park) towards Malmöhus Slott. Spend an hour exploring the castle’s moats and the photography exhibitions. From the castle, it’s a 15-minute stroll to the Västra Hamnen (Western Harbour) to stand at the foot of the Turning Torso. The architecture here feels like a sci-fi film set against the backdrop of the icy Øresund sea.

13:00 | The Editor’s Choice: Lunch
Forget the generic bistros. For a true taste of modern Malmö, head to one of these:
Saltimporten Canteen: Located in an old industrial harbour building. They serve only one meat and one veg dish daily, but it is high-end culinary magic at canteen prices. Very “if you know, you know.”
Malmö Saluhall: This is a stunning food hall. Head to Hedvigsdal for wood-fired pizzas topped with local Skåne ingredients, or Poms Sandwich for the best Reuben in Sweden.

15:00 | Artistic Immersion
Walk back towards the centre for Moderna Museet. Even if you only have 45 minutes, the building itself—a vivid orange power station—is a masterpiece. If you prefer something more “lifestyle,” browse the independent boutiques along Södra Förstadsgatan.

17:00 | The Ritual of the Sauna
Take the bus or a 20-minute walk to Ribersborgs Kallbadhus. This is the quintessential Malmö experience. Strip down (it’s clothing-optional and gender-segregated), bake in the wood-fired sauna, and then jump directly into the freezing Baltic Sea. It sounds mad; you’ll feel like a new person afterwards.

19:30 | Dinner & Drinks in Möllevången
For dinner, head to the Möllevången district (affectionately called “Möllan”). This is the soul of Malmö’s multicultural food scene.
The Spot: Basterd Wine & Pizza for a lively vibe, or Lyran if you want a sophisticated, fixed-menu experience featuring local farmers’ produce.

Nightcap: End the night at Belle Epoque for a cocktail or a local craft beer.

Pro Tip for the Road: The “Lund” Add-on
If you have an extra two hours, Malmö’s little sister, Lund, is only 10 minutes away by train. It’s a university town with a 12th-century cathedral and charming cobblestones that make Malmö look like a metropolis.